A Revival of Elegance: Why Pocket Watches Deserve a Place in Your Collection

It wasn’t all that long ago when pocket watches and wristwatches coexisted side by side, each having their own distinct place in the world of horology. The pocket watch, once the epitome of elegance and precision, has gradually faded into the background with the rise of wristwatches, and more recently, smartwatches. However, as trends in watch collecting evolve, there are undeniable reasons why pocket watches can and should be reconsidered for a modern watch collection, not merely as relics of a bygone era, but as sophisticated, functional timepieces with unique charm.

As someone with a deep, unexplainable passion for pocket watches, I’ve spent countless hours delving into the realm of these timeless treasures, seeking out the most interesting and beautiful pieces I could find. Brands like Patek Philippe, Cartier, Eberhard and Brelsen offer striking pocket watches that, even today, command attention with their refined craftsmanship and vintage appeal. Despite the prevailing wristwatch dominance, there’s something inherently satisfying about owning a pocket watch—a timepiece that exudes tradition, artistry, and a tangible connection to history.

 

Why Collect Pocket Watches in the 21st Century?

For many, pocket watches seem impractical. They conjure images of Victorian gentlemen pulling their watches from waistcoat pockets, a romantic but outdated notion in an age of wearable tech. However, pocket watches offer something that modern wristwatches and digital timepieces often lack: a sense of history, intricate design, and an undeniable connection to the craft of watchmaking. Whether as objects of design, engineering, or horological curiosity, pocket watches can complement a wristwatch collection in ways that are both aesthetic and functional.

Take, for example, my own journey of discovering an extraordinary pocket watch that sparked my enthusiasm and led to a deeper appreciation of these overlooked timepieces. One evening, as I was browsing Chrono24—a favorite haunt for watch enthusiasts—I stumbled upon a rare Universal Genève Compax ref. 22549 pocket watch. This discovery served as the catalyst for my realization that pocket watches not only hold historical significance but also bring a unique layer of depth to any collection, particularly when paired with wristwatches of a similar caliber.

 

The Universal Genève Compax ref. 22549: A Collector’s Dream

This particular Universal Genève pocket watch stood out for its unusual dial layout and the presence of the iconic Universal Genève Compax logo. The watch, with its striking 46mm case and chronograph pushers positioned at 12 o'clock, is a manual-wind marvel that harkens back to the golden age of horology. The Universal caliber 292 movement inside this piece is a testament to the brand's commitment to precision and attention to detail, even in watches designed for functionality rather than flamboyance.

What makes this watch truly fascinating is its dial layout: a 30-minute counter at 12 o’clock, a 12-hour counter at three o’clock, and running seconds positioned at the bottom. The slightly domed dial, along with the bold tachymeter scale and alpha hands, gives the watch a distinctly military aesthetic, an appealing feature for those interested in timepieces with historical connections. The Compax logo itself is a nostalgic nod to the Universal Genève shield, a symbol of the brand’s legacy.

 

Pairing Pocket Watches with Wristwatches

One of the most compelling reasons to consider adding a pocket watch to your collection is the way it can complement modern wristwatches, creating thematic connections that go beyond simple aesthetics. In the case of the Universal Genève Compax, its perfect pairing comes in the form of the Universal Genève Aviator’s Compax ref. 22430. Both watches share the same movement, and with their matching 46mm cases, they embody a harmonious blend of form and function that would make any watch enthusiast’s heart skip a beat.

The Aviator’s Compax is a wristwatch that was purpose-built in the 1950s for military use, with its large size and bold chronograph functionality designed specifically for aviation. Despite its utilitarian origins, the watch’s oversized design has since become a symbol of vintage watch collecting. Holding both the Universal Genève Compax pocket watch and the Aviator’s Compax wristwatch side by side, it’s clear that each piece enhances the other, creating a seamless bridge between two eras of horological craftsmanship.

 

The Return of Oversized Chronographs

While oversized wristwatches may have fallen out of favor in contemporary design, they were once revolutionary. The Aviator’s Compax, with its 46mm diameter, is a reminder of a time when size was synonymous with functionality. This was not a watch meant for casual, everyday wear, but a tool designed for pilots, navigators, and military personnel. In the 1950s, a watch of this size was remarkable, and it remains an iconic piece for collectors today, particularly those with an interest in military history.

When paired with the Universal Genève Compax pocket watch, the connection between form, function, and history becomes even clearer. Both timepieces are built around the same caliber 292 movement, which gives them a shared DNA that goes beyond aesthetics. The attention to detail in both watches—the bold dial layout, the substantial case size, and the utilitarian features—make them a dynamic duo in any collection, illustrating how pocket watches can be just as relevant as wristwatches in the 21st century.

 

Military Heritage in Watchmaking: The Universal "A. Cairelli" Split-Second Chronograph

Another fascinating watch that underscores the historical significance of pocket watches is the Universal Genève A. Cairelli split-second chronograph ref. 22560, a timepiece commissioned by the Italian Air Force (AMI) in the mid-1950s. With a bold 44.5mm case and oversized numerals, this watch was purpose-built for military use, much like the Aviator’s Compax. However, its most striking feature is the split-second chronograph function, which made it an indispensable tool for pilots on anti-submarine reconnaissance missions.

The Universal rattrapante chronograph, known as the HA-1, was a rare watch, with fewer than 100 pieces ever made. It was entrusted only to senior officers in the Italian Air Force, making it one of the most desirable watches among collectors today. The watch’s Valjoux 55 VBR movement, with its 16-minute totalizer, is a rare feature that further adds to its allure. Though the Universal rattrapante is not a pocket watch per se, it shares the same military heritage and bold design as many vintage pocket watches, illustrating how the past continues to influence modern collecting.

 

The Story of Eberhard and Italy's Military Aviation

Speaking of military connections, another brand that deserves mention is Eberhard, known for its close ties to Italy’s military aviation history. In 1942, five Italian aviators undertook a perilous mission to establish an air route to Japan, carrying with them two essential timepieces: a Longines Lindbergh hour-angle watch and an Eberhard split-second pocket watch with a 24-hour dial. The Eberhard pocket watch, known as the Sistema Magini, was an essential navigational tool during this mission, underscoring the functional importance of pocket watches in critical moments of history.

While the Sistema Magini pocket watch is a rare and sought-after collector’s item today, it serves as yet another example of how pocket watches have played pivotal roles in both civilian and military contexts. The Magini name continued to be used in future Eberhard pocket watches and wristwatches, adding to the brand’s legacy of precision and reliability. Watches like the Sistema Magini remind us that pocket watches were not just ornamental accessories but critical tools in moments of great historical significance.

 

Pocket Watches: A New Wave of Collecting

Today, as watch collecting continues to evolve, pocket watches are experiencing a revival among discerning collectors. While wristwatches have dominated the market for the better part of a century, pocket watches offer a unique opportunity to own a piece of horological history. Their intricate designs, hand-finished movements, and historical significance make them a valuable addition to any collection, whether you're a seasoned collector or a newcomer to the world of fine watches.

Pocket watches like the Universal Genève Compax, Eberhard Sistema Magini, and Brelsen Royal Gold Mechanical are just a few examples of the incredible variety and craftsmanship that pocket watches can offer. They not only complement modern wrist watches but also provide a window into the past, allowing collectors to appreciate the artistry and precision that went into creating these remarkable timepieces.

 

Conclusion: The Enduring Appeal of Pocket Watches

In conclusion, pocket watches are far from obsolete. In fact, they offer a unique blend of history, design, and craftsmanship that is hard to find in modern wristwatches. Whether you’re drawn to their aesthetic appeal, their historical significance, or their technical complexity, pocket watches can add a new dimension to any collection.

For those on the fence about adding a pocket watch to their collection, consider this: pocket watches are not just relics of the past, but enduring symbols of horological excellence. They tell stories of military missions, aviation breakthroughs, and the evolution of watchmaking technology. And for those willing to embrace their timeless appeal, pocket watches offer a refreshing alternative to the more commonplace wristwatches that dominate the market today.

So the next time you're browsing for your next timepiece, don’t overlook the pocket watch. You might just

find that it’s the perfect addition to your collection—a testament to timeless craftsmanship, elegance, and a passion for horology.